Haley Trip: Old City and Haifa

Well, if yesterday says anything about the amazing moments we are to experience this Holy Week, I figured I'd better do a catch-up post about the Haley trip.  I trust that, although no writing can truly capture the beauty of living an experience first-hand, it will just have to do. 

First, I am just so thankful that we had a whole week together in the Holy Land.  Though the first part of the week (and our Galilee trip) was rainy, we still went to everything and the kids traveled so well.  I really am in awe of their big adventurer spirits and hope to keep feeding the fire of curiosity.

Anyhoo, the first full day (Monday), we had a slow morning and then went into the Old City to hit many of the big Christian sites like the Cenacle, the Church of the Dormition, etc.  These visits marked the beginning of a trip-long blessing of having these sacred spaces to ourselves, if only for a moment.  Considering tourist season is really in full-swing, that says a lot about divine blessings.

Many of the churches here, as anywhere, have such incredible live space in which to sing, and Kev and I took the chance to sing Rosa Mystica in the Church of the Dormition.  With just our family and a few people who came in later, we sang.  Melodious and tender, this song is so moving, and quite dear to us.  We sang it in Folk Choir, where we met and fell in love.  Afterward, the handful of French tourists who had walked into our impromptu concert complimented us warmly, and off we went.

Before stopping for a late lunch, we visited the Western/Wailing Wall.  The women and men have separate sections, with the men's side being about 3-4 times larger than the women's side.  As a result,  our side ends up being 4-5 rows thick of pressing, determined women hoping to make their way to touch the wall.  

Although it was my fourth or fifth time visiting, it was the first I was able to lean against the wall itself, joining my prayer with the Jewish and Christian women surrounding me.  Women praying in Hebrew, English, French, Amharic, singing, weeping, beating their chests and schuckling (moving back and forth as they pray the Torah).  It was intense and beautiful.

Of course, Jacob wanted to get pictures of Papa and him with their kippahs (yarmulkes) on.

And Ceci showed off her "falling asleep when I darn well need to anywhere, anytime" skill:

Sibling love

Courtesy of Jacob--poor Papa wasn't feeling too well.  :(

Now that we're acclimated to the city, it was such a treat to be able to show our family around like locals (or as much as one can be a local in 3 months' time). 

Kathleen, Mama and Papa had their first schwarma --Papa's with just meat, of course.  Then we took them to the adoration chapel that is just a piece of heaven on earth.  They braved Damascus gate, and piled onto the bus tired and ready for naps.  And let me just say, seeing broad-backed fair Irish Papa squeezing through the narrow aisle in the bus of slight Arab men was certainly a sight to see.

Considering jet lag, culture shock, and the sheer sensory immersion/stimulation/overload that is the city, I was quite impressed with how they handled it all, and they even went to the Hebrew-speaking parish after a quick nap!

Tuesday brought rain and a full car for our trip to Haifa, Nazareth and the Galilee.  Not to let it dampen our spirits, we set off to visit Stella Maris, the Carmelite monastery in Haifa on Mt. Carmel.  According to an online source and a guide book, the church would be open until 1:30.

After a bit of a construction delay, a beautiful albeit rainy drive up the Mediterranen coast and a short search through the hidden roads of Haifa, we made it by 12:30,  just in time to have an hour in the church. 

Or did we?

My stomach dropped when I passed the church on the way to the bathroom.  Hoping nobody else saw the sign saying it closed at 12:30, I furously ticked through the possibilities.  We could have a long lunch and wait the 2.5 hours until it re-opened, or we could beg.

As providence would have it, we happened upon the gift shop just at closing time.  There was a baby monk there who, upon my request for a concession to the closure, he claimed he was unimportant and pointed to a quiet Arabic woman saying, "She's my boss."    :)

We politely asked if there was any possibility at all to peek into the church, that Kathleen was entering the Carmelites in a month, and even if just she could go in, it would be a great gift.

"So sorry, it's closed," she said gently.

Well, Papa Bear came out at, what at the time was, shall we say....on the intense side...ended up being the conduit of gift.  Olivia (as we later learned her name) said she would try to phone the abbot.  A short call later, and she had permission.

A family visit to the Stella Maris Church on Mt. Carmel.

A family visit in the quiet, peaceful church to ourselves, away from bustling crowds and shutterbugs, with a peaceful moment to bless and pray for Kathleen and this next step in her journey.

Elijah's Cave

Our angel, Olivia

To be continued.....